Washi "Muslin"

 I decided recently I wanted to make a dress from a legit pattern. I was in Portland a few weekends ago, and found myself in Bolt fabric store on Alberta.

I flipped through patterns of all kinds. In my heart this is the pattern I've always wanted wanted to make. Simple dress with nice details that fits well. I sold formal dresses for years and know what looks good on my body. Empire waist. Lower neckline. Darted short bodice. Loose skirt, but not too full.

The Washi Dress Pattern is from Made by Rae. Before seeing it in Bolt, I had seen many originals and improvised Washi dresses in blog-land and knew that the pattern was well-made and had some options open to adding in my personal style. After being treated so warmly in Bolt, and getting beautiful black with vines fabric, I was giddy on my ride home. 

I read the pattern the next day. I have never made a quilt or clothing item from a pattern, as you know I am a "do-it-my-own-damn-self" kinda gal. I set out to cut out my size and then decided to read some reviews and tips. I set off starting with her website. Then, I ventured into the world of the internet. It is amazing to me how much crafty folks like to share their experiences.
One tip suggested not cutting the pattern, or any pattern ever, for that matter. Instead it instructed to use Swedish tracing paper so you have a sturdy pattern that can be altered. All the while, the original pattern stays intact for making different sizes later. Against my normal tendencies, I ordered the special tracing paper and decided to wait. Waiting is hard for me and has been the downfall creative nature of quite a few projects. I knew I wanted to make the pattern more than once. I wanted to do it right. Not just fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants like I normally do. 

I waited a whole week while bursting at the seam, no pun intended, wanting to slice up my fabric and pattern and get to the sewing already!

When the tracing paper came, I carefully measured myself and fell between two sizes.  So I traced the bigger size carefully and cut out my pattern from the waist line up only. Focusing on making a muslin of the parts where I needed it to fit the best in the bust area instead of the whole dress, is a must! Another great suggestion. Then, I traced again and made a "muslin" out of super sale blue scrap fabric in the bigger size. The muslin was way to big everywhere, even with my awesome push-up bra on, so I ripped out my basting stitches. I lined up my patterns again and then traced and cut my tracing paper down to the next size and re-sewed the muslin. Still a bit big but under the bust, so I decided to deviate a bit and add in darts in the waist up to the bust. Another rip apart, tracing of a pattern and trimming and re-sewing.

Again, I was glad I reviews suggesting darts under the bust apex. I put on the muslin again and it looked pretty good without the shirring, that would eventually make it fit well.
Then I grabbed the pretty flower vines on black and I cut all the pieces and went to bed. 

The next morning the blue muslin was put on the table when I cleaned up my sewing area. I realized I really really liked it, I only had bit of the blue cotton I got on super sale. So all of it was used to make the top "muslin" of the dress.  It worked well with my Kaffe stripes, this was this by far the best choice. I loved the pairing and knew this would be a great go-to casual tunic dress

Quickly, I found myself making two Washi Dresses.   I put the black one aside and decided to test out all the fittings on the "muslin". 

All in all. 

I love this pattern. I intend on making many more. It fits very well with out a need for major adjustments. Super glad I read the comments and reviews on her website. I hope to buy the expansion pack soon. Lesson of the day: It pays off to make a muslin and if you do it out of super sale fabric you get two dresses!

Woah watch out...its me who you never see!

I was initially daunted by even trying a pattern and then attempting shirring.

The shirring is an easy way to make an elastic area that doesn't need to be encased. It also enticed me to dream up many more items so that I can do more shirring. It makes it the dress comfortable and easy to get on without zippers or buttons. 

I chose to only do every other shirring line so it would be more loose on this casual tunic.

A little stripe binding on the sleeve to make it sleeveless and give it more detail.

Of course this pattern has pockets which was a major selling point. 

Stay tuned for the other one. It's a beauty. 

Works in Progress

Kaffe Scrappy Log Cabin Top

I've been fighting a nasty bug for a few days. I would have much rather been behind my sewing machine than on the couch.  I have have felt a bit bad passing this beauty hanging on the curtains. Today the sunshine came out and backlit my beautiful Kaffe top. I felt inspired to get up and get sewing. I first had hubby take it outside so I could get a proper photo.

He loves crazy socks and can't wait to play in his now super muddy garden.

It needed a bit of yellow. So border went on with mitered corners.

I think I need a bit more energy to tackle the batting, backing and binding. I am exhausted just thinking about it. Thanks for coming out sunshine, its been along while.

Kaffe Log Cabin

I have started a quilt. I have many unfinished quilts. I feel conflicted about starting a new one. I was totally inspired by the new Kaffe fabric I purchase and how it fit into my current stash of Kaffe. The colors are so consistent. I have been purchasing 1/2 yards for going on 5 years now. I have a nice collection. I really wanted to use up some of the scraps left over from the Kaffe Quilt and Scrappy Embroidered pouches.

I started with the mulberry shot cotton scrap. I cut 24 random smaller squares in varying sizes anywhere from 2''-4 inches.

Then I spent the majority of my time organizing my scraps. I wanted 4 color sets, so I could create a stair step pattern. I ended up with orange/burgandy, blue/green , then lights and darks.

Kaffes colors makes this process easy. After sorting my scraps into colors, I then sorted them into sizes: tiny, medium and large. I was looking for strips over 1 inch wide. I knew I could always cut the bigger pieces down as needed. I ended up surveying my scrap selection and then cutting strips off my 1/2 yard stash to fill up my piles. I have a nice selection of patterns; large florals, stripes, small organic patterns and other geometrics. I didn't get too caught up in cutting certain sizes since I really wanted a scrappy look. Setting up the scraps made the piecing part rather mindless. I just tried not to put the same fabrics next together.

I set up the stacks of scraps by size to work through to build the block. This quilt is a scrap buster and I wanted to have all the small pieces available to use when starting the block so. I didn't want to cut off the big long scraps to start off.

I also wanted to make this quilt to come together quickly. I utilized my chain piecing skills, I lined up my blocks to sew at one sitting. 

Everytime I chained pieced I would cut them off the sewing line and keep them sorted by color. Since, of course I wasn't using a pattern per usual, I had to keep myself organized in someway.

The orange/burgandy and green/blues got paired in blocks and then the darks and lights. I don't use pins when sewing much. I just paid a lot of attention to the colors, and laid all my blocks the same direction to make sure I was sewing the correct sides together.

Here's a nice stack of 10" squares. I am trying to decide if I want them bigger than this.

Stay tuned to find out.

My Bag

After quilting the Kaffe zig-zags, I pulled out my stash of vinyl that I purchased from a scrap bin at an upholstery shop. This huge piece of mulberry soft backed vinyl  was a whopping $3.00.  I knew it was destined for a bag, rather " My Bag". I want to make more projects for me. This bag I had no pattern for, of course. I basically did what I normally do, I used an existing bag I own as a pattern and alter it for what I really want. I decided to use the quilted Kaffe piece as a "flap" for the top of the bag.  I wanted the vinyl  to be on the bottom since I knew it would hold up best.

I have decided year 2014 is dedicated to perfecting zipper installations. I have not used many zippers in my sewing, mostly because I make quilts. I am trying to branch out in my sewing. I bought about 10 zippers to try with different projects. I always start my zippers by closing the ends up with tabs, as seen below.

Then, I flank the zipper and press and top stitch, as seen below in my lining pieces. I chose light grey lining, so that it would be easier to see way into the bottom of the bag. I ended up machine sewing the bottom and sides of the lining and then hand sewing it in the bag, by tacking in the bottom corners and stitching into the zipper edge along the top.  I debated over this approach to the liner, but ultimately I loved that it looked great!

Most of the time took in this project was determining what I wanted to ultimately get out of it. I spent a lot of time with the lining making sure that I would get the pockets I need for the things I carry. I want to use this bag everyday. I think the vinyl looks nice and sturdy while the Kaffe fabric panel helps make it trendy and adds the detail a signature bag really needs. My beast of a Bernina powered through this project with ease. I really love that it handled the topstitching with such precision. 

Boxing out the bottom corners helps the bag stand up and gives it a better bottom to hold my goodies.

Here this the almost finished bag, sans strap. I made zipper extend a few inches down the side to maximize access to the deep bag. I live in a town that banned plastic shopping bags and taxes paper ones. So I often find myself with out a good bag at the store and shoving groceries into my purse. This bag is perfect, because I can lift up the flap and fill it full. 

The strap was a difficult task. There was blood spilled, cuss words flying and backups brought in. All in all, it was a team effort. Basically, I made the vinyl tube too small and it kept sticking to itself and kind of stalled in the middle, as we tried to turn it. Yes, I say we, it took 3 of us. Lesson learned. Honestly, I learn something every time I set out to make something with out a pattern, I wouldn't have it any other way!

Fabric Shopping

Well, Santa knows what I want. At my age, with no kiddos, I get cash. Cash is my favorite, though it is not very Christmasy. Also, I didn't travel for the holidays and checks are easier to mail. I instead stayed home to clean closets, cook yummy meals, plan spring and summer vacations/ projects and participate in some sale shopping.

My favorite sale shopping is done at the fabric stores. The worst is that there is a lovely quilting store store is walking distance from my house and it hasn't been raining much. Ive gotten some great deals from Jo-Ann's as well. So, I started piling the fabric up on the table so I could take an awesome photo. I felt like a bride after getting all my gifts on my wedding day.

I decided it was a good time to try to visit some of the other quilting stores in near by towns.

I ended up going to three different/new to me stores and ordering stuff online. My Kaffe stash on top is my favorite.

I started immediately stitching on a piece that I intend on incorporating into a bag.

Snow Days

Here in Oregon we had some amazingly cold days where it actually got to -4 degrees. 

It is not at all what Iam used to but, I secretly love it!

I love the pattern that ice crystals create on my windshield, even if it takes 30 minutes to defrost the car to go anywhere.

Kuma certainly loved the 6 inches of snow that came and was still around 5 days later.

I enjoyed the first two days when I wasn't working. The other days were just a pain! Eugene is not prepared for this weather and the roads were a nightmare. Coming home to my sewing machine and this sweet bear's face made it so much more enjoyable!

The shut down of town allowed me the time to feel like I could stay home and finish christmas gifts like the Love Love pillow.

I think I love loved the inside of the pillow more after all the embroidery I did.

My beautiful Bernina did a lovely job on all my gifts.

Including this scarf for my sister In-Law.

I also finished my snowmen in assembly line fashion. These guys just needed faces and buttons.

Love Love

I have been wanting to make a decorative pillow for my mom to go with the quilt I made for her Big Birthday. 

I knew I wanted it to be " LOVE LOVE"

This is what my Mama and Sister say to each other,  now my husband says it and I am pretty sure a few friends have picked up on it. Because in my family it's not just Love, it's Love Love.

I started by looking for a certain size for a pillow insert. I went for 14 x14. I cut out the muslin 15 x15 , so that I can quilt the piece.

I folded the piece of muslin in half so I knew how big one word needed to be. 

I used scrap pieces left over from her Kaffe fabric quilt. I started with the dark colors, by laying them out on the half of muslin.

I tried to keep my strips 2-3 inches wide considering 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Then I cut and filled in with the light colored fabric.

I am a very messy cutter. I also have lots of Kaffe fabric and intend to make quite a few more quilts from the scraps. I try to keep the lights and darks sorted nicely, or not so nicely.

Here are some border pieces. I found that taking a few were not only helpful for my blog but, also to get it back together after sewing and pressing.

I ended up cutting my "E" strips too thin and it came out rather tiny. I actually had to remake the "E".

Here is one finished " LOVE".

The final Block, LOVE, LOVE.

I cut the batting 14 1/2 and sandwiched it with the muslin and sewed all sides down with 1/4 seam allowance.
I am planning on doing some simple quilting to get the letters to pop a bit more.
I hope my Mama will LOVE, LOVE it.

Embroidered Patches

I wanted to add some detail to my Scrappy Beginnings. So, Ive been working on these colorful embroidery boarders while I am waiting for spring to happen outside my window. I love these color combinations. Ive just got to do the other panel for the other side of bag. I stuck with the crazy notion of what ever I feel like goes with these bags. Reminds me of a sampler or vintage crazy quilts, except in modern colors. I havent embroidered in awhile. It is quick and simple, but yet creative and carefully planned.  Ive decided to work more in embroidery because I am not stuck behind a sewing machine. Sewing is a rather isolating task/hobby. I am trying to not isolate myself as much.

Wallet made

I ve been on the wallet hunt, I have a very large designer leather wallet. It is not really practical when you are thinking about camping and taking backpacking trips. I wanted something smaller and thinner. The ones that are typically that size are for boys or childish. I have been on the hunt with no luck in the retail world, so I decided to make one.
 I found this lovely bi-fold wallet tutorial by Modest Maven through a Pintrest rabbit trail search. I was super excited that it didnt require anything of me that I didnt have. I used velcro instead of the snap like the tutorial suggests. I did feel that the bill lining part was not quite the correct size. I ended up cutting a 1/2 off making it 4 x 9 and it still rolled over the edging. Otherwise the directions were super easy to follow and make a perfect size bi-fold.

I was able to make this one in about 1.5 hours (while eating lunch) I am sure I can do it faster if I wanted to churn them out. I know that one side of my card slots got out of line. This purple fabric I have had for ever and have 6+ yards that I got on clearance at Mary- Jo's. It is not a quilt weight cotton. Its very stiff but not very thick. Other than cotton, I am not sure how else to describe it.
The super awesome stripe fabric is a Kaffe (which I am unable to find on his website :-P ) the stripe is rather thin. I did use stabilizer on both pieces of it. I would like to make this again with a zipper coin side.
Can wait to start using this awesome wallet!

Scrappy Beginnings

I saved almost every scrap from my Kaffe Quilt I made a year ago. These were end pieces from the color themed strips. I pieced them together and end up with nice size rectangles. I love the stagger piecing and that I am using up this amazing fabric. With no real planned out intentions I added cotton batting and backing fabric. I want to hand embroidery each pannel and make them into....
Who knows. I am not your typical following the pattern/direction girl. I generally look at an image an go for it. I think some thing with a zipper. I've got a nice stash of zippers I got at a Joann's closing. I do love the patchwork it made. I like the dark one a wee bit more than the pale.

A Little Funky

Vintage chairs were a score. They swivel too. I think they fit our over all look. There are two, of course I had two perfect Kaffe handmade by me pillows to bring out more of the 60's vibe. They are velvety feeling but, polyester. I remember this color from my parents house when I was a kid, I think it is a great neutral with tan and should make a comeback. I am in love with mid century modern furniture. I find that it tends to be super expensive stuff, even more so here on the West Coast. I know these really aren't mid century modern but they seem to fit in with my pieces of furniture. I was stoked to get these two chairs for $50. Kuma likes them too, she gave them a major sniffing before allowing them to stay. I was super sad to get rid of the chair that we had in NC. It was super big and nice to curl up into. It had come from my grandmother's house and went to a friend who enjoys it. Besides, these are a little funky, rather awesome and there are two! Which makes me feel slightly more grown up.

Kaffe Cloth Napkins

This might just be my favorite project i've worked on in awhile. 

I have been unemployed since leaving NC two months ago and moving to Eugene, OR. I have moments of thinking that my husbands  income will barely sustain us, then in tears that I left my seeming perfect job in NC, and finally excepting of the time off as a vacation. Recently, I seem to lean more to the fact that this is a much needed vacation. The lack of employment will end and I will be mad that I didn't use my time better.

There have been a few things to hinder my wise use of time. First, I have been sick, my stomach is just not happy at all. Second, within two days of moving into our apartment we decided we wanted to move  into the more accessible part of Eugene. So, when it came to unpacking boxes some boxes were never opened and shoved into the garage. I finally found the desirable Kaffe fabric that always inspires me. How could you not be inspired by all those colors.

And Third, I've spent more time on Pinterest than any person should admit to. Today, I decided to finally make a few things on my "Make this NOW!" board. These napkins were perfect for the Kaffe scraps. So, between bouts in the bed, on the computer sending resumes and Pinterest rabbit trails, I churned out these six lovelies.

 The Kaffe Scraps came from the quilt I made my Mom last year. I had tiny pieces of some and yards of others that I purposely bought too much of. It is hard for me to cut down the bold Kaffe flowers. I enjoyed using the chevron ikat and organic prints to balance the bold flowers. Kaffe's prints all work so well together sometimes there were too many choices. I tried to use the scraps first that could be joined with out cutting or trimming. I also hesitated on cutting any yardage piece, therefore this project probably too me longer than it should have.
 I adore the eggplant shot cotton from Kaffe's line. I am unsure of the precise color name but it is a dark purple warp and orange weft. Which looks different in lighting and perfect solid to compliment all that color from the print side. The current kitchen is rather boring but at least their is a lot of natural light.

I think cotton napkins give a nice pop on the light wood table and they are not so formal that they wouldn't be unpractical for everyday use. Stay tuned for coasters and seat covers from the smaller scraps that I can't let go to waist.